Hi There!!
Due to recent events, I have more time on my hands, so I thought I might play around with the blog I tinkered with a while ago. So, here is a knitting pattern for a buttoned kitchen dishtowel that incorporates the Cluster Quilt stitch.
Quilted Kitchen Towel
Designed by Linda Gloss
Who knew that creating dish towels
could be such fun???
MATERIALS
- 2 skeins [2.5 oz (57g)/120 yd (86 m)] Lily Sugar and Cream 100% Cotton yarn or similar cotton worsted weight yarn
- Size 7 needle.
- Large Button
GAUGE: Gauge is not critical and will
vary according different stitch patterns.
SIZE: 14" W by 18" L when buttoned
SPECIAL STITCHES AND
ABBREVIATIONS
Cluster = (With the yarn in back, slip the
last 3 stitches worked back to the left needle, pass yarn to front, slip the
same 3 stitches back again to right needle, pass yarn to back) twice.
p1w2 = p1 wrapping yarn twice around
needle. This will create an elongated stitch on the next row when
the extra wrap is dropped.
sl1dw = slip one dropping extra wrap
ABBREVIATIONS
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches
together
kfb = knit in the front and
the back of the
stitch
p = purl
p1w2 = p1 wrapping yarn
twice around
needle
pm = place marker
RS = right side
sl1 = slip 1 purlwise
sl1dw = slip one dropping
extra wrap
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
DIRECTIONS
Cast on 56 sts and knit 2
rows.
Double Seed Stitch
Section
Starting on right side,
Row 1: K2, p2
Row 2: P2, k2
Row 3: P2, k2
Row 4: K2, p2
Work rows 1-4 five times,
then rows 1-3 once more.
Transition Section
Row 1: On wrong side, knit
across.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl
Rows 4 and 5: Knit.
Seed Stitch Section
Complete 5 rows in seed
stitch as follows:
Row 1 (RS): k1, p1 across
Row 2 (WS): p1, k1 across. End after a right side row.
Transition Section
Row 1: On wrong side, knit
across.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Knit, decreasing 1
st at center with a k2tog. 55 Sts.
Note: Markers are placed below
to separate Seed Stitch edges from the Cluster Quilt pattern in the center.
Increase Row (RS)
K1, p1, k1, pm, *kfb, k4,
kfb, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k1, pm, k1, p1, k1. 71 sts.
Cluster Quilt Section
Note: Cluster
Quilt stitch pattern is a multiple of 8 sts plus1 additional stitch.
Keeping the first and last
3 sts in Seed Stitch (k1, p1, k1), work the Cluster Quilt pattern between the
markers as directed below
Set up Row (WS): P1, *p1w2, p5, p1w2, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 1: (Right
side): K1, *sl1dw, k5, sl1dw, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: P1,
*sl1, p5, sl1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 3: K1,
*sl1, k5, sl1, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 4: Purl,
dropping all elongated slipped stitches off needle to back.
Row 5: K1,
sl1, k1, *pick up 1st dropped stitch and knit it, k1, pick up next dropped st
and knit it, Cluster, k1, sl3, k1; rep from * to
last 4 sts (not counting 2 dropped sts), pick up next dropped stitch and knit
it, k1, pick up next dropped st and knit it, Cluster,
k1, sl1, k1.
Row 6: P1,
sl1, *(p1, p1w2) twice, p1, sl3; rep from * to last 7 sts, (p1, p1w2) twice,
p1, sl1, p1.
Row 7: K3,
*sl1dw, k1, sl1dw, k5; rep from * to last 6 sts, sl1dw, k1, sl1dw, k3.
Row 8: P3,
*sl1, p1, sl1, p5; rep from * to last 6 sts, sl1, p1, sl1, p3.
Row 9: K3,
*sl1, k1, sl1, k5; rep from * to last 6 sts, sl1, k1, sl1, k3.
Row 10: Purl,
dropping all elongated slipped stitches
off needle to back.
Row 11: K1,
pick up 1st dropped stitch and knit it, k1, sl3, k1, *pick up next dropped
stitch and knit it, k1, pick up next dropped st and knit it, Cluster, k1, sl3, k1; rep from * to last st, pick up last
dropped st and knit it, k1.
Row 12: P1, *p1w2,
p1, sl3, p1, p1w2, p1; rep from * to end.
Repeat the 12 rows of the
Cluster Quilt pattern until 14" or desired length from beginning, ending
after either row 4 or 10.
Work the final row of the
quilt pattern without clusters or slipped stitches.
If your last row was row 4, work between the markers as
follows:
K3,
*pick up 1st dropped stitch and knit it, k1, pick up next dropped st and knit
it, k5; rep from * to last 5 sts (not counting 2 dropped sts), pick up next
dropped stitch and knit it, k1, pick up next dropped st and knit it, k3.
If your last row was row 10, work between the markers as
follows:
K1,
pick up 1st dropped stitch and knit it, k5, *pick up next st dropped stitch and
knit it, k1, pick up next dropped st and knit it, k5; rep from * to last st,
pick up last dropped st and knit it, k1.
Decrease row, including edge stitches (WS): Drop markers on this row. Knit 3, *k2tog, k4, k2tog. repeat from * to
last 4 sts, k4. 55 sts.
Transition Section
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2: Purl
Rows 3 & 4: Knit.
Garter Stitch Button Tab
Decrease rows
Row 1 (RS): Wyif, sl1pw,
*k2tog, k1; rep from * to end. 37sts.
Row 2: Wyif, sl1pw, knit to
end.
Row 3: Wyif, sl1pw, *k2tog,
k1; rep from * to end. 25 sts.
Row 4: Wyif, sl1pw, knit to
end.
Row 5: Wyif, sl1pw, k2tog
to end. 13 sts.
Row 6. Wyif, sl1pw, knit to
end.
Continuing to slip the
first st as above for each row, work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 20
more rows or to desired length to fit over towel bar or appliance handle.
Make Buttonhole:
Row
1: Wyif, sl1pw, k4, bind off 3 sts,
knit to end.
Row 2: Wyif, sl1pw, k4, cast
on 3 sts, knit to end. (A simple thumb loop cast on is fine.)
Decrease row:
Wyif, sl1pw, k2tog, knit to
last 2 sts, k2tog.
Repeat decrease row until 3
sts remain.
Slip one knitwise, k2tog,
pass slipped stitch over.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block gently with steam iron. Sew button as pictured, testing placement to
fit towel bar or appliance handle.
